Where Hooves Thunder and Warriors Rise: The Sport of Kok-Boru
Outlines of the horses and their riders become visible as the dust settles on the vast Steppe. The hooves that kicked up the dust a few moments ago are now taking a victory lap. Welcome to this traditional horseback game played in the mountains of Central Asia. It goes by many names such as Kok-Boru, Buzkashi, Kokpar, Kupkari, and Ulak Tartysh. On a sunny day by the Song-Köl, with a cool breeze accompanying us, we headed towards the settlements where young men were getting ready to show us the grit and power it takes to be part of these games. There are two teams wearing red and blue shirts, warming up with stretches as we start warming up our cameras.
The first event is a good old tug-of-war. A thick rope is brought out and the two teams grip it jostling to demolish the line at the opposite side. The pull and push of the rope line remains tense as each side has its strongmen unwilling to give into defeat. It results in a tie. The players invite us to try our hands at it and I jump at the opportunity, only to be flung in the air with the sheer might of the pull at the rope. Embarrassed, I toe back to my camera with a red face.
For the next event, coins are placed in small decorative pouches across the field. The players mount their horses at the far end of the field. As the whistle blows, one by one, the steeds pick up pace along with their riders, who swoop down their bodies and pick up the strewn pouches with a flick of the hand and steady themselves back on the horses. All this happens in a blink of an eye and before long, all the coins have been picked up.
After showcasing their agility, the players gear up for the next game – hand-to-hand wrestling, but on horseback. A player from each team, take off their shirts and ride towards each other. They lock arms as they try to unmount their opponent. Riding the horses, all the while manoeuvring their bodies sideways to avoid falling down – which would mean defeat. The blue team's player finally manages to get an upper hand. With a quick twist, he successfully dismounts the red team's player. The game is won! The teams take a small break before the final event of the day.
Kok-Boru begins! This is part of the nomad games where two teams compete to secure a goat or sheep's headless carcass by moving it across teammates while trying to capture it as a prize. The winning team gets to take home the bounty which is then skinned, cleaned and prepared as a sumptuous feast for the winner's side.
Both teams are gathered in a huddle at the opposite ends of the field. The headless carcass of a lamb is brought in and placed in the middle of the field. A referee trots on horseback surveying the scene. The captains of the team are called forth and the trio meet in front of the lamb. After greeting each other, the captains head back to their huddles waiting for the signal. As soon as the whistle goes off there is a mighty roar from both ends of the field. The teams mounted on their steeds rush towards the carcass in the middle of the arena.
The two teams race towards the sheep's carcass, trying to outdo one another and secure the first point. A tussle begins as all players form a tight cluster to manoeuvre the carcass around. Players from both teams hold on to the carcass to avoid it being taken by the opposite team. In the push for gaining advantage, the carcass slips and thuds to the ground. A red team player swoops in. With one swift motion, he snatches the carcass and dashes toward the finish line. Just then one of the blue team's players tackles him. These two players emerge as leads from each team as they keep a firm grip on the carcass all the while also managing to ride their horses steadily. Finally, with a strong tug, the blue team succeeds in pulling the carcass away. The player secures the carcass firmly between his leg and the horse's flank. He makes a dash for the finish line. As the horse and its rider cross the finish line, a cheer erupts all through the field. The blue team is today’s victors. The day closes with a sumptuous feast in honour of the winners. As the last embers of the feast’s fire glowed under the vast Steppe sky, I realized that Kok-Boru was not just a game—it was a testament to strength, tradition, and the unbreakable bond between horse and rider.
