Tag: India

The White Desert: Great Rann of Kutch

I remember reading about the term “mirage” as a child in school and always imagined it to be a magical thing.  As our bus trudged on the soft part-sand-part-mud path, outside the window a thin white line started appearing on the horizon.  The nearer we approached the brighter and broader the line became.  Settlements on

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Kolkata Chronicles

I have called this city a partial home, where most of my vacation days were spent as a child.  Visiting here after two decades brought back memories that I wanted to capture before they were lost to time, as the place undergoes drastic changes yet retains the essence of what my childhood felt like.

Faces of Kutch

Against the stark barrenness of the white desert, there live numerous colourful faces and each has a story to tell.  Here are some of them who walked a while with me on this journey and left an impression on my soul, through theirs. The Tanpura Singer Deva Bhai sat under a shaded canopy, surrounded by

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A Glimpse Of Love

“If you ever write about this, name it The Search For A Perfect Thangka,” says Norbu, my guide, and displays his pearly whites in a smile. “Very funny, but I will consider it,” I respond, “and you can be my editor for the article!” After driving me around for almost two hours in a near-deserted

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Old Man By The Road

The purple knee-length dress flutters at the hem, as I walk along the cobbled road flanked by rows of wood apple and bamboo trees.  In the early hours, the residents of the Osho Meditation Resort in Pune, dressed in flowing maroon robes and bamboo sandals, are returning from their breakfast at the German Bakery located

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A Banter In The Mountains

River Ganges at Rishikesh

The crisp morning Himalayan air whips through my hair.  I look out at the first glow of sunrise from my hotel balcony.  I have been coming to Rishikesh every year and the stay at Divine Ganga Cottage is becoming a norm.  I particularly love the fact that, in this hotel, I find the quiet and

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The Soul of Kashi

In Greek, “nostalgia” literally means “the pain from an old wound”. It’s a twinge in your heart, far more powerful than memory alone. This device isn’t a spaceship, it’s a time machine. It goes backwards and forwards, it takes us to a place where we ache to go again. ~ Don Draper This is the

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A Rustic Akhara

In a bylane of Banaras, we went to witness the age-old tradition that is still kept alive in these parts of the country – an akhara.  The traditional wrestling format imbibes the spirit of guru-shishya traditions.  In the early hours of the morning, seeing these athletes in action was an experience like never before.  

Dev Diwali

Varanasi celebrates Dev Diwali – Diwali of the Gods, which takes place 15 days after the usual Diwali festival on the full moon day.  Morning sees the devotees swarm the riverbank to take a dip in the holy river and as the sun sets, the ghats are lit up with a million tiny lamps to honour the

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Postcards From Varanasi

Kashi, or Varanasi/Banaras as it is known today, is the oldest continually inhabited city in the world.  The history of the place is writ amongst its charming ghats to its maze-like by-lanes.  Life here is bodacious, vivid and gives you a sense as old as time itself. The Ghats This place is an important site

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